Comments are now closed – if there are any unanswered questions though, we’ll get to them shortly.
It’s Open Wire today, where you can ask Chris about his awkward woodworking gang signs (see above), and any other woodworking questions you might have. (I’ll chime in as time and necessity allow – but I’m teaching a Dutch tool chest class in our shop today, so my internet time is limited.)
Open Wire runs from now until 5 p.m. Eastern. Just type your questions in a comment, and one of us will answer – and you’re welcome to share your knowledge with answers, too! If we don’t get to your question right away, give us a little while, please. Chris is busy building another chair, surprise, and I am busy showing folks how to cut dados and rabbets today.
The Open Wire dates for 2026 are:
February 28
April 18
June 20
August 8
October 19
December 12
– Fitz
How wide of a shaving should I be getting out of a number 4 plane cambered correctly? I’ve been struggling with getting rid of plane tracks while also keeping a wide shaving.
I found an old pop wood article where I believe you mentioned an inch wide shaving but wanted to confirm
Smoothing planes should give an almost full width shaving that tapers at the edge to nothing!
Give your blade about 10-20 light pressure strokes on each corner as you’re sharpening the blade. This should do the trick! Also, a very light cut should be used when smoothing!
The resulting cuts should be wispy thin as you are trying to get a smooth/glistening surface and not introduce any tear out!
Light cuts will also help eliminate those little stutter cuts when you first start your plane into the board!
Should you still get those little stutter marks at the start, try skewing your plane to start the cut and then straighten into the pass!
Lastly, use wax on the sole or make yourself an “oil in the can wipe” (see Paul Sellers) to help smooth the passes of your plane on wood!
Best of luck to you!
What Don says is good advice. Personally I don’t shoot for a full-width shaving because I generally use that plane with two settings:
So my blade just a little bit more curve. On the finishing setting, it’s probably 1-1/4″ wide.
I don’t know if it’s me or if it’s the wood (it’s probably me) – when I try to get a fine finish with a light cut on pine or Doug fir, I seem to pull the earlywood/latewood apart and clog the fine-set mouth with “dust”. I’ve been using a more open mouth, which seems to help. I might need to sharpen more. Any other advice?
This past year I completed my first piece of stick furniture that had arms, the Curved-Back Armchair from the first edition of your book. I was asked if I could build one for a fellow woodworker club member’s brother. He’s a diabetic and 300lbs. We’re looking at adding 2 inches in seat width. Question(s): 1) Should I keep the original placement of the leg mortises or move each out 1 inch? (back sticks would be adjusted accordingly); 2) Your latest revision increased the size of the legs to 1 3/4 and switched from tapered to conical tenons. Current plan is to increase to 1 3/4 but retain tapered tenons. I’m using red oak strain grain blanks from Alexander Brothers. Is there a need to increase the size of the back sticks by an 1/8?
All those changes sound good, including adding thickness to the sticks. I’d also add an H-stretcher.
Happy holidays! For linseed oil paint do you still mix in 10% of mineral spirits?
I haven’t used it for a while – I’d probably have to experiment before getting back into it. Perhaps someone who has used it more recently and often can comment here.
Yes. But we recommend you read Mattias Hallin’s longform story on linseed oil paint.
https://32trendsdaily.com/2024/02/11/linseed-oil-paint-notes-from-overseas-from-an-experienced-user/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
We are also working on a forthcoming book on linseed paint that focuses on what woodworkers (as opposed to house painters) need to know.
Thanks for everything you do, the information and inspiration are all super valuable!
I believe you have mentioned that you sometimes use a Veritas PMV-11 blade in your Lie-Nielsen #4. Does the L-N chipbreaker fit the Veritas blade, or did you get a Veritas chipbreaker with your blade as well? Thanks!
We both now have PMV-11 blades in our LN No. 3s – with the LN chipbreaker
I’m about to build my first full chair, inspired by your Irish-American armchair from the Stick Chair Book (already glued up the seat blank).
I thought I remembered reading in a Open Wire earlier this year that you planned to add Gibson chair drawings to the newest version of the book, but I may have just dreamt it. Didn’t see any in the latest copy; am I crazy? If so, any plans to release them in the near future? I might be convinced to pivot to a Gibson if you do, or maybe I’ll just add it to the list of future projects and stick to the current plan.
Either way, thanks for all you do for the craft!
I was going to add the Gibson to the book, but it was getting out of hand and the book would never be done. So I skipped it.
I’m revisiting the Gibson this year with some simplified techniques from my video on the chair. But probably not until April or May.
Happy Holidays!
In using the Auriou rasps (9 and 13 grain) for shaping chair parts, I have build up clogging the teeth. What’s the best way to keep the tools working at optimal condition?
Thank you.
You need to keep the teeth clean. As I work, I knock the rasp against the bench every 10 strokes or so to knock off the loose stuff. When the rasp seems to slow down a bit, I brush out the teeth with a stiff-bristle brush (basically a VERY stiff fingernail brush). When things are really packed in there, I’ll use a brass bristle brush (no it’s won’t hurt the teeth; they are much harder). And if that won’t do the trick (this has only happened once), I soak the teeth in mineral spirits for a few hours and then brush them out.
You’ve written previously about the “shop finish” (varnish, BLO, mineral spirits). Do you still use this for anything or has it been superseded by the buck naked finishes? If it still gets pressed into duty, when do you reach for it?
I just used it on a piece that’s in the next issue of Fine Woodworking, because we wanted a little more protection on it. So yes!
struggle getting a perfectly straight edge when I grind a blade, especially wide ones. I usually end up with small indents here and there when I hold up to a straight edge.
Any tips to grind a little straighter or “joint” the edge once it’s close as I can get it?
There are jigs, of course, that can guide you.
When I have to remove damage on the edge. I scribe a square line across the back of the blade (behind the damage). Then I hold the blade 90° to the wheel and grind the tip until I get to the line (all this with photos is in “Sharpen This,” a free download here: https://lostartpress.com/collections/books/products/sharpen-this). Then I put the blade flat on the tool rest and grind the bevel until I have a thin thin thin thin flat at the tip. Then I remove that thin tip on the sharpening stones. The honing guide keeps/makes the edge straight.
When I grind to simply reduce the primary bevel (because the secondary is too big), I grind the bevel until the secondary shrinks to almost nothing. Then I stop and go back to the stones.
So really, the honing guide does all the “straightening” work. If this doesn’t make sense, check the images in the book.
Followup rasp question. After using it to you tap it the the oil woobie to protect from corrosion?
Nope. The teeth would rip the cloth. And the cloth would get tangled in the teeth.
I use my Lie Nielsen 7 as my jointer and my shooting plane. Ive decided to get a second blade for it, one to camber for jointing and the other to keep straight for shooting and match planing.
The PMV11 blades are actually cheaper (plus free shipping) than the LN blades. Do you think I’ll irritate the hell out of myself swapping between two blades of different thicknesses?
Probably, yes. But swapping out blades of identical thickness would irritate me….
Can you freeze fresh milk paint?
Thanks
No clue. Ask Nick Kroll. https://www.instagram.com/thehobojournals/
Can you compare milk paint and linseed oil paint for chairs?
Both are durable, natural and non-toxic.
Milk paint dries fast. Linseed oil paint dries slowly.
Both may need a topcoat.
Linseed oil paint is better for outdoor applications.
Both can be toned and tinted with pigments.
And I’m betting that spraying the rasp with any sort of oil like jojoba would just cause sawdust and chips to stick in the teeth anyway. So how do you keep them from any sort of corrosion?
We live in the Ohio River Valley (VERY humid). I’ve never had a rasp or file rust (as long as it wasn’t left in a puddle). So I keep them clean and carry on.
I know some people who spray a little oil on the cleaning brush. But I’ve never done it.
Hi Chris, Megan and others:
I would like to make craftsman style trim for windows and doors in my house. I haven’t narrowed down a design primarily because most examples I see on the internet likely require use of a shaper. As a hobbyist, I only have access to a table saw, a miter saw and a small router table. Can you recommend any sources where I can look up designs accessible to hobbyists? Do any LAP books discuss these designs and methods to achieve them?
Have a splendid holiday season!
Most Arts & Crafts trim is simple – no miters even. Mostly flat board skirted with back-bend moulding. Baseboard can have just a chamfer.
As far as resources go, try Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/jackiejoyhomes/arts-and-crafts-trims/
Fine Homebuilding has done lots on the topic: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/finish-trim-carpentry/craftsman-style-casing
Gustav Stickley’s magazine, The Craftsman, was filled with ideas for trim. You can read every issue here: https://onlinebooks.library.upenn.edu/webbin/serial?id=craftsman
There are also numerous Dover reprints of Stickley’s home designs, inside and out.
I built a 10 ft dining table last year for our home from walnut. I have nearly finished a stick side chair from poplar and maple that I intend to paint black. I am building it similar to a chair that was my grandmothers. It also will be painted black. I want to build the rest of the chairs from walnut, how do you think it will look mixing painted and natural chairs, also any tips for batching out the parts to build multiple chairs at one time?
FWIW, both Chris and I have chairs of all colors and finishes around our tables. We like the look.
This is a taste issue. I live Poverty Dining – where none of the chairs match. Other people find it abhorrent.
When I have to make sets of chairs or prepare stock for 10 chairs, I batch everything out. Octagonalize all the legs, stretchers and sticks. Taper the legs. Glue up the seats. Make all the arms.
Then I build two chairs at a time so my bench doesn’t get overwhelmed.
Hello,
I bought an old workbench, the top is too dirty and ragged and needs to be planed. However, in the front center, the top is worn to about 5mm below the rest of the benchtop (this depressed area is about 10-20×80 cm). Do you have an advice whether to plane the whole top to be flat, fill the indent (with epoxy?), patch or something else? Thank you!
I think this depends on how thick the workbench top is. If it’s 4″ thick, just plane it down. If loosing 1/4″/5mm will weaken the top, I’d patch in some hard wood after flattening it.
Haven’t tried it—am currently testing if quark survives a few months in the freezer.
I would assume the answer for the paint is no, but it needs to be tested.
Chris, John, and everyone at LAP, thanks for giving me a place to shop every Christmas. 🎁. It’s a wonderful little business you created.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!
Thanks Patrick!
Started octagonalizing some legs on the bandsaw yesterday. I’m using the cradle jig described in the book and a relatively new carbide impregnated blade. It’s producing a wavy cut, bouncing off the left guide bearing. I think my tension is right. Maybe I’m just rushing it? Any tips or insight?
Sounds to me like something could be wrong with the weld in the band. There might be a small kink in the band. Or there is something up with the tires (a piece of junk on the wheel or generally messed-up tires.
When I have weird band saw trouble, I take the band off, clean the tires and set things back up from scratch. This almost always works. If the problem persists, it’s the band.
Thanks for all the insights and inspiration. A question about steam bending. I managed to get an Akerbloom chair from 1st Dibs and would like to duplicate the bend in the spindles using geometry from the chair to build a side chair similar to the chair in ADB. I have a local mill that will sell me single boards of what ever hardwood they are currently sawing. When bending to spindles how should I orient the grain when I put them in the bending form?
Lots of people disagree on this. I seem to have the best results when the wood is rift (diagonal rings through the stick).
But if you look at the furniture record, they did it every which way.
When building an 8′ version of the ADB bookcase, how would you change the placement of the shelves?
I’m thinking (from top to bottom):
1 – 12″ shelf (like the cap on a column and easier to reach than a 9⅜” shelf)
3 – 9⅜” shelves
2 – 12″ shelves
1 – 18″ shelf
From the plywood reports: Should I mask when sawing solid wood by hand? Is masking only for plywood? Is masking while sawing overkill?
Your arrangement will work. Might look awkward with that tall top shelf. Might not. I’d draw it out and decide.
I don’t mask when handsawing anything. We use good dust collection at the source when the saw is electric. The only time I mask (if I’m being honest) is when sanding or working stuff with nasty dust that is an irritant.
Thanks!
Can one use hide glue even for larger pieces, eg an ATC?
You need something with a long open time. Liquid Hide can give you 20 minutes. Fish glue can give you two hours.
One more question on the ADB bookshelves; I’m just about done with a set. I built one for my son when he went to college. It’s moved with him about six times and is still super solid.
In the book, Chris, you said you finished it with lacquer. Is there any reason to not use soft wax on the shelves? Will the oil harm books?
Thanks.
Soft wax is fine after the oil cures. These days I just leave the shelves bare (no finish).
Are the LN No. 3s now unobtainium? They don’t seem to be listed on the Lee Valley website.
You won’t find Lie Nielsen on the Lee Valley web site! Go to the LN website site and they have them in stock!
I have the iron one and it’s a treat!!!
I also have a bronze #4 and the Bronze 4 1/2 2006 anniversary edition (which actually belonged to Chris back in the day when he wrote for Pop Wood!! He sold it online after he finished the article in hand planes! It’s a heavy beast, but great for large areas like tables!!)
A couple months ago Curtis Turner said they were in process.
Chris, for drilling the mortises in chairs have you ever tried the Peter Galbert Bismarck bits? Thank you.
I used one a million years ago when Pete and I were teaching at the same school. They are great.
What kind of metal strapping do you buy and use when when building a steam bending jig?
Back in the day I used metal strapping for binding pallets. And I made a new one for every chair design. Now I use the Lee Valley bending strap, which is adjustable and heavy duty.
Hi…
Have you tried a BMI 429 tape measure? (Rolls out on it’s own)
(I’m not an agent nor sponsored…but it’s now my “go to”…)
So many good qualities…
Btw Merry Christmas to all!
I have not. My brain doesn’t admit to my wallet that the thing is capable of working…. We’ll get one someday
Hello. I’m planning on building your comb-back stick chair. Can you please tell me the difference between the various comb-back designs in the The Stick Chair book versions, the American Peasant post “Free Plans & Patterns: 7-stick Comb-back Chair”, the Video: Build a Stick Chair, and the full-size patterns available to buy? I’m ready to jump in. I’m just trying to decide which one(s) to focus on. I see some have 6 sticks and others 7 sticks, but I wasn’t sure if there was more than that. Thanks.
The differences are aesthetic. All of them offer basic comfort and good strength.
The curved arm comb-back has a steam-bent arm.
The other comb-back in the book is the same as the plans on the substack. Laminated arm.
The video has a laminated arm and an elliptical back, which is better for bigger sitters.
I usually advise people to pick the one they dislike the least and do that one.
Good morning,
Are you familiar with any way to remove sub-surface rust stains from steel? I’ve got a couple beautiful old Starrett combination squares that I love very much and use every day, but the dark discoloration of the steel can make it hard to read the markings. It looks kind of like the black flecks and veins in marble, if that helps narrow down what I’m talking about. Is there any way to lighten or remove these? Or, failing that, do you have any suggestions for making the markings more visible?
I’ve had some luck removing such discoloration by rubbing with fine (000 or 0000) steel wool soaked with Kroil.
I don’t know how to get deep rust out without soaking it Evaporust, electrolisys or other soaking methods.
When I get a discolored one, I’ll polish up the metal and then put black wax in the engravings (apply the wax, wait 20-30 minutes, buff off)
Or I get a replacement satin blade, which is easy on the eyes.
My India ink finish won’t dry. Forever wiping off. Been weeks. Did 3 coats followed by soft wax. Buffing rags turned black. Buffed every couple days for a while. Eventually bathed the chair in mineral spirits. Still rubs off black. My best guess is that I shouldn’t have used India ink I inherited oh so many years ago. What will seal this bad boy? btw its the lowback Irish from FW in hickory. First chair. Turned out great except its covered in a sheet.
I have no idea what your old India ink was made of. The stuff we use is alcohol-based and dries in seconds.
I probably would try applying some shellac in a small area to see if that seals it. Shellac is the best sealer I know of.
How should I arrange the loose tenons on a seat made from pieces 7, 7 and 3 inches? Put the skinny one in the middle, mortise all the way through, and use 7 inch loose tenons?
I go by appearance – if the grain will show in the final seat. If it won’t show, then I don’t think it matters much. I’d just stagger the mortises so they don’t meet.
Thank you! You are entirely correct. I shudda known it too. I’m easily confused these days. Your bronze 4-1/2 has GREAT provenance.
At one point it was mentioned somewhere a book on casework would potentially be on the way. Is that still a possibility?
We had one in the works that fell through. until we refill that hole, we recommend Bill Hylton’s “Illustrated Cabinetmaking.”
Hi Chris
Smoothing is somewhat of an art! You have to balance a not too tight mouth, a fairly close set chip breaker, and get the blade as sharp as possible! This is especially true when planing softwoods! Kinda like the Goldilocks story! Not too much! Not too little! But just right!
Sometimes doing one of the two: too tight mouth and very close set chip breaker will cause issues.
I have found that pine doesn’t need all that much of a tight mouth. So go with medium deep set chip breaker and a very sharp blade! Try to work with the grain and change direction when you hit a problem area! Hope this helps! Best of luck!
Unfortunately the 0000 steel wool didn’t do much. The surface is already glassy smooth, so maybe I’ll try again with the 000 in case the little extra courseness helps.
In The Stick Chair Book, you mention that you use a 2″ drop front to back for the Irish American Armchair. Is that correct? And still your go to tilt for this chair? Having never sat in this type of chair, it seems like a lot.
Yup. Somewhere between 1-1/2″ and 2″.
You can decide for yourself. Cut the legs down with a 1″ drop. Then put blocks of wood under the front legs and try for yourself. Then cut the rear legs down more (or don’t). Hope this makes sense.
I’m having some issues with Star M bits. With some practice, I got pretty good at using one in cherry for stick mortises. I’m having trouble with it in oak. It catches when moving through early and late wood and jerks the drill. No matter how much I brace the drill against my body, or how slowly I feed it, I still get some catching and it wallers out the mortise. I’m not particularly weak and can hold a drill (I think??). I’m ready to go back to spade bits for oak, which is fine, but just wondering if you have any other tips. Do you use a clutch setting?
Also, just a thanks. I’ve made four stick chairs to this point, and each one has benefitted from your continual iteration of explanations or simplified processes. Obviously some of it is practice on my part. But each revision has been so helpful and I appreciate it!
Oops, I meant Star M F-Style.
Slow seeds (like turning an auger by hand) and light downward pressure work best in ring-porous woods.
Density differences stink when drilling, even with spades.
And I’m glad the chairs are coming along!
Thank you! I’ll keep working at the drilling. I have so many plans to make other furniture, but all I want to do is make chairs.
“Chair Disease” is real. And the families of the victims suffer the most.
Alright, hard rest makes sense, thanks!
I’m building my first stick chair. After I test fit the undercarriage (with two medial stretchers), it was really difficult to hold the seat and simultaneously knock out all four legs without ending up with a mess of dented sticks on the floor. Do you have any tricks for disassembling the chair after test fits? I’m anticipating a similar situation with the arms and sticks. Thanks for spending your Saturday with us!
We did a video on this last week and the mics didn’t work. Sigh.
Put the front edge of the seat on your workbench with the legs facing you. Use a 5/8″ dowel and small sledge to tap the mortises a bit at a time until they are almost out. Put the seat flat on the bench and pull the legs out by hand.
Excellent, thank you! Looking forward to the video if you decide to reshoot it. MJW
Just a thanks for doing this. Y’all already put so much free material to learn from, but making yourselves available to answer questions (and probably questions you’ve answered a 1000x) with patience is next level.
Thanks again.
Happy to repeat ourselves!
Thank you! For the answer and all you do for our little community of woodworkers
Kicking myself for procrastinating on the joiner’s rule. Any idea when it will be back in stock?
Late January or early February.
Any recommendations for reading glasses (sigh)? What about ways to keep them near head? The old lady chain is fashionable but annoying as the glasses swing around at the worst time.
Maybe someone else here can help. I have progressive lenses in my glasses.
Milk paint usually has something on top so you can’t just add another coat when things wear, linseed does not so theoretically you can. I have milk paint with linseed on top on several Windsor chairs, but contrary to some tastes I don’t like the wear patterns. I expect to make a table in the next year that will have a painted undercarriage and both it and the chairs are scheduled to get linseed.
I’m thinking of building my first stick chair, I’m tired of mass-produced chairs that are the wrong size and don’t last well. Due to budget, I’m very interested in the Bulls%$t chair, but I prefer the style of the Irish-y armchair or the curved-back armchair. First chair will likely be used as a desk chair. Do you have any thoughts on using the materials from the Bulls%$t chair for either of those other chairs? Would there be any recommended changes to the construction of the chairs?
Thanks! (And thanks for hosting these, always lots of good information)
You can make almost any chair with the BS techniques and materials. I have made 4-stick Welsh chairs with dowels and plywood with no problems.
The only thing you have to change is that you don’t need a shoe/doubler on the arm if you use plywood for the arm. So it’s simpler.
Didn’t land correctly, that was a comment on Chris’s comment on milk paint vs Linseed. (I am using milkpaint on case goods..)
Are you willing to make any comment on books expected to be released in the next couple months? I try to batch purchases due to minimum shipping costs and now I want a giant protractor (which I wouldn’t order before Christmas in any case…)
We have two books coming out the first quarter of 2026.
The Stick Chair Journal No. 3
“Thomas Jefferson’s Declaration Desk” by Ed Zappen.
In the summer, look for Peter Follansbee’s book on 17th c casework. And our pocket book on “Smalls.”
After that… who knows. Likely “The Wild Line” on Jimmy Possum chairs by Mike Epworth.
Good Afternoon Chris and Megan,
Do you know of a good mail order source for boards wider than 12” for hardwoods such as cherry? I don’t need them that often but I can’t find them locally. Yes, I can glue two boards but would be nice from time to time to get wider boards. Thanks.
Sincerely,
Joe
Buying wide boards over the phone/internet is a gamble. So this recommendation comes with a caveat. You will never be dissatisfied witht he wood from Irion Lumber. Lou is an outstanding cabinetmaker and will pick out the wood like it’s for his project.
Caveat: it is expensive. But not as expensive as buying unusable boards.
Hi Chris, Megan,
I am a huge fan of books from Becksvoort (and love his woodworking style) and Walker/Tolpin. Would it be possible for you to share if either are working on any upcoming books? If so, any info on the topic you could share would be appreciated. Thanks.
Sincerely,
Jo
We have contracts on books from both Chris and George-Jim. So look for them late next year or early 2027. They haven’t turned in their manuscripts, so we don’t have a timeline.
Thanks. Looking forward to these books.
Smalls. Is the book on smalls still in process?
Yup!
I can’t find a source for brass quadrant stays. Ive been trying to track some down to build a campaign secretary using your campaign furniture book and I checked all the sources listed to no luck. I emailed Horton brasses and they said that they don’t have a supplier for those since 5 years ago. So I just keep checking Ebay and Etsy, but have’t had any luck there either…any other newer sources for that hardware you can think of? Thanks for your time
-Tim
Yeah. Horton ordered them from the Optimum Brasses in the UK and then colored them to match the others.
https://optimumbrasses.co.uk/
The quadrant stays aren’t listed there, but you might ask them (if you haven’t already).
A phone call to Bob at Whitechapel might turn up some leads. He has been around the business for a long time.
https://whitechapel-ltd.com/
I don’t see quadrant stays on his site, but there are other folding stay options there that are appropriate.
Finally, talk to a whitesmith. This is simple work. Peter Ross makes brass hardware.
https://www.peterrossblacksmith.com/
Here is some data for you regarding strength of stick chairs….
The first one i made has a 1 1/4” thick spruce seat, oak legs that are 1 1/8” at the tenon and taper to 7/8”ish at the floor. This chair has held me for years and i am just shy of 300 pounds. At times it has held upwards of 500 pounds when someone sits on my lap. I thought it would have broken many times over.
Thanks!!!
Thanks for the help. Having a fellow cabinetmaker pick them as if he was using them on his own project sounds perfect to me. From a hobby perspective, it takes me quite a while to complete a large project so the money spent on the wood could realistically be all I would need to purchase for a year or two of hobby work and from that perspective the price isn’t too bad.
What happened to Gift Guide Day 5? This bothers me like one unclocked screw.
It’s there. It just got published out of sequence.
https://32trendsdaily.com/2025/11/20/2025-anarchists-gift-guide-day-5/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
Haley – in my experience, the steel wool is there mostly to help push the Kroil into the divots caused by the corrosion, and carry the loosened corrosion away. I use very fine to minimize scratching on the surface that is already in good shape. (Soaking in Evaporust isn’t a terrible idea, either.)
Thanks, Don. This is precisely the kind of situation where I would like to be in a class/intern position to have someone more experienced watching over my shoulder and making suggestions. I’ll keep practicing!
Matt – try the ones with continuous temples and a magnet at the bridge. They don’t swing much when down around my neck.
Happy Holidays to the LAP family!
Chris, I’m curious if you have an opinion on the 5-1/4 junior jack as a user plane. Lie-Nielsen recently did a limited run and I was fortunate to get my hands on one. I like how it shares the same blade as the No.3 bronze smoother, and the high angle frog is likewise interchangeable between the two. Also, it’s weight is within the range you recommend for jack planes.
Are there any potential downsides I’m missing due to its slightly smaller size, compared to a No. 5 or 5-1/2?
Or could you see this size jack plane make a big comeback if Lie-Nielsen brought the 5-1/4 back into regular production?
(With some help from the Schwarz effect, of course).
I’d love for Lie-Nielsen to make a lightweight jack, and a 5-1/4 would be one good solution (or milling more off the casting for the No. 5). I’ve suggested it sheepishly to Robin at LN. They are busy enough, so I suspect it’s a no-go.
How much does the 5-1/4 weigh?
Honestly, there is still an ample supply of really good Stanley No. 5s for several generations.
Do you have any drill press recommendations? Maybe something for a future Never Sponsored? I don’t feel like I need one often, but there are times when it would be nice.
Vintage. South Bend. Powermatic. Old Delta.
I may be tech challenged, but did my comment / question from this morning make it to you all?
It did and I replied. Let me look
Curious about how your apprenticeship program, could you give some more detail? How’s it work, what do they need to do, what all will they learn? What would you recommend if someone were designing or thinking of entering an apprenticeship?
We’ve written about it in detail on the substack devoted to the apprenticeships. A free subscription gets you access to most of it:
https://theanarchistsapprentice.substack.com/
It’s a one-year formal program, with a lot of teaching happening after the year as well. Basically we get you up to speed in making chairs for sale in one year. You learn all the basics (sharpening, stock prep, working to a drawing, finishing etc.) but the emphasis is on chairs. There are waypoints – making four chairs of increasing complexity – and it ends with the person designing and building a chair from scratch and on their own.
Katherine is only the second to go through it. So I’m sure the process could use a lot of refinement. So I don’t feel like I could say much about how to design one or what to think about when entering one. Ours is not founded on the historical model, which was many times used to exploit young workers.